Colour terminology is a mess. Permanent, semi-permanent, demi-permanent, gloss, toner, glaze. All different things, all do different jobs, all last different amounts of time. If you don't know which one you're getting at your appointment, you don't know how long it'll last, what it'll do to your hair, or whether it'll cover your greys. Here's the plain English version.
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Permanent colour: full chemistry, longest lasting
Permanent colour uses ammonia (or an ammonia-substitute) and a peroxide developer. The ammonia lifts the cuticle, the developer oxidises the existing pigment in your hair (lightening it) and deposits new pigment in its place. Result lasts until it grows out or fades to a slightly different tone, usually four to six months. This is the only category that can genuinely cover stubborn greys and the only one that can lift your hair significantly lighter than your natural base. Most damaging, longest lasting, can cover anything.
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Semi-permanent: stains the outside, washes out
Semi-permanent doesn't use ammonia or peroxide. It just stains the cuticle layer with direct dye pigments. Result lasts four to twelve washes depending on the brand and your hair porosity. It cannot lift hair (cannot make hair lighter), only deposits colour. Great for fashion colours (pink, purple, copper) where you know you'll get bored in two months. Terrible for grey coverage because there's no lifting. Lowest damage of all four categories, by a lot.
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Demi-permanent: between the two, gentle and forgiving
Demi-permanent uses a low-volume developer (no ammonia, or very little) so it can deposit colour and tone existing colour but cannot lift. Result lasts twenty to twenty-eight washes, so roughly two to three months on weekly washers. This is what I use for most refresh appointments. It can blend grey (not fully cover, but blend), refresh colour vibrancy, deepen or warm tones, and tone unwanted brassiness. Low damage, predictable result, ideal for clients between major colour appointments.
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Gloss and toner: surface tint only, treatment level commitment
Gloss and toner are both deposit-only treatments that adjust the tone of your existing colour. Used to neutralise brassiness in blondes, add shine and depth, or change the tone subtly. Both last four to eight weeks. They're basically a tinted conditioner and they leave your hair shinier and softer than they found it. I include a toner in every foil appointment because foils leave blonde with a yellow undertone that needs neutralising. You can also book a gloss as a standalone treatment between colour appointments to refresh.
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Which one for what goal
Need to cover white greys: permanent. No substitute, semi or demi won't cover. Want to lift hair lighter than your natural shade: permanent (or foils with lightener). Demi and semi cannot lift. Want to refresh existing colour or blend grey at the roots: demi-permanent. Want to try a fun colour for a few weeks: semi-permanent. Want to neutralise brassiness in blonde: gloss or toner. Want to deepen or warm your existing shade without commitment: demi-permanent or gloss.
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What I use at Hair Pinns
Inside a colour package appointment, the formula depends on what we're solving. Grey coverage and significant lift: permanent. Refresh of an existing colour without lift: demi-permanent. Toning after foils: gloss. For clients who want a fun colour for a season: I use semi-permanent on bleached or pre-lightened sections so the colour sits as a stain on top. Each has its place, each is the wrong choice for the wrong job.
Questions from the chair
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Hair Pinns a real salon I can visit?
Yes — Hair Pinns is in Bangor, NSW, and has been at the same location since 2009. You can book online or call for a free 10-minute consultation.
What services does Hair Pinns offer?
Cuts, colour, foils, keratin smoothing, QIQI Vega, Nanoplasty, hair extensions, bridal styling, and infrared sauna. Jena personally handles all smoothing, extensions, and bridal work.
Do you ship products Australia-wide?
Yes — free shipping on orders over $150, flat $10 under that. Same-day dispatch for orders placed before 1pm AEDT.
Can I book a free consultation?
Yes — every new client gets a free 10-minute consultation, redeemable on the first service. Online booking shows real-time availability.
What payment methods do you accept?
Visa, Mastercard, AmEx, Afterpay (4 interest-free payments), and cash. Afterpay is available on all services and products.
