What's the difference between permanent, semi-permanent, demi-permanent, and gloss colour?
Permanent uses ammonia and developer to lift your existing colour and deposit new colour, lasts four to six months, can cover greys. Semi-permanent stains the cuticle surface with direct dye, no lift, lasts four to twelve washes. Demi-permanent uses low-volume developer, can deposit but not lift, lasts twenty to twenty-eight washes, ideal for refresh and grey blend. Gloss and toner are deposit-only treatments lasting four to eight weeks, used to tone or refresh existing colour. Pick permanent for grey coverage or lifting, demi for refreshing existing colour, semi for fun fashion shades, gloss for tone adjustment.
Colour terminology is a mess. Permanent, semi-permanent, demi-permanent, gloss, toner, glaze. All different things, all do different jobs, all last different amounts of time. If you don't know which one you're getting at your appointment, you don't know how long it'll last, what it'll do to your hair, or whether it'll cover your greys. Here's the plain English version.
Permanent colour: full chemistry, longest lasting
Permanent colour uses ammonia (or an ammonia-substitute) and a peroxide developer. The ammonia lifts the cuticle, the developer oxidises the existing pigment in your hair (lightening it) and deposits new pigment in its place. Result lasts until it grows out or fades to a slightly different tone, usually four to six months. This is the only category that can genuinely cover stubborn greys and the only one that can lift your hair significantly lighter than your natural base. Most damaging, longest lasting, can cover anything.
Semi-permanent: stains the outside, washes out
Semi-permanent doesn't use ammonia or peroxide. It just stains the cuticle layer with direct dye pigments. Result lasts four to twelve washes depending on the brand and your hair porosity. It cannot lift hair (cannot make hair lighter), only deposits colour. Great for fashion colours (pink, purple, copper) where you know you'll get bored in two months. Terrible for grey coverage because there's no lifting. Lowest damage of all four categories, by a lot.
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Demi-permanent: between the two, gentle and forgiving
Demi-permanent uses a low-volume developer (no ammonia, or very little) so it can deposit colour and tone existing colour but cannot lift. Result lasts twenty to twenty-eight washes, so roughly two to three months on weekly washers. This is what I use for most refresh appointments. It can blend grey (not fully cover, but blend), refresh colour vibrancy, deepen or warm tones, and tone unwanted brassiness. Low damage, predictable result, ideal for clients between major colour appointments.
At-home maintenance between colour appointments
Gloss and toner: surface tint only, treatment level commitment
Gloss and toner are both deposit-only treatments that adjust the tone of your existing colour. Used to neutralise brassiness in blondes, add shine and depth, or change the tone subtly. Both last four to eight weeks. They're basically a tinted conditioner and they leave your hair shinier and softer than they found it. I include a toner in every foil appointment because foils leave blonde with a yellow undertone that needs neutralising. You can also book a gloss as a standalone treatment between colour appointments to refresh.
Which one for what goal
Need to cover white greys: permanent. No substitute, semi or demi won't cover. Want to lift hair lighter than your natural shade: permanent (or foils with lightener). Demi and semi cannot lift. Want to refresh existing colour or blend grey at the roots: demi-permanent. Want to try a fun colour for a few weeks: semi-permanent. Want to neutralise brassiness in blonde: gloss or toner. Want to deepen or warm your existing shade without commitment: demi-permanent or gloss.
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What I use at Hair Pinns
Inside a colour package appointment, the formula depends on what we're solving. Grey coverage and significant lift: permanent. Refresh of an existing colour without lift: demi-permanent. Toning after foils: gloss. For clients who want a fun colour for a season: I use semi-permanent on bleached or pre-lightened sections so the colour sits as a stain on top. Each has its place, each is the wrong choice for the wrong job.
Key Takeaways
- Permanent: lifts and deposits, 4 to 6 months, only category that covers stubborn greys
- Semi-permanent: stains only, 4 to 12 washes, great for fun colours, useless for greys
- Demi-permanent: deposits with low developer, 20 to 28 washes, ideal for refresh and grey blend
- Gloss and toner: surface tint only, 4 to 8 weeks, leaves hair shinier than it started
- Match the product to the goal: greys need permanent, refresh needs demi, fun needs semi, tone needs gloss
See our colour packages
Learn more about this service or book your appointment today.
Frequently Asked Questions
What's the best treatment for frizz in humid Sydney weather?
A keratin-free smoothing treatment paired with a humidity-resistant leave-in works best for Sydney's changeable climate. Start with a gentle, sulphate-free wash, add a protein-balanced mask weekly, then seal with a heat-activated protectant before blow-drying.
How often should I tone blonde hair at home?
Every 1–2 weeks for maintenance, using a pH-balanced violet or blue-violet treatment, depending on your undertone. Keep dwell time short (3–5 mins) to avoid over-ash. Follow with a hydrating mask because toners can be slightly drying.
Keratin vs. smoothing: which lasts longer?
Keratin treatments (formaldehyde-free) generally outlast quick smoothing services, giving 2–4 months of frizz reduction with proper care. Smoothing services are gentler and great for first-timers or colour-treated hair, lasting 4–8 weeks.
